Showing posts with label techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label techniques. Show all posts

Friday, May 29, 2026

Technique: How I Sew a Web and Save Time / Beauties Pageant 332

If there’s anything I’ve learned over the 13 years I’ve been quilting it’s this: What works for me works, and I see no reason to change my approach to cutting/piecing/pressing/quilting if it gets me the results I am looking for. But boy, have I been proven wrong recently!

When I am piecing blocks, it’s easy for me to lose focus just long enough to second-guess whether I’ve accidentally mixed up the pieces. To avoid confusion, I often resort to taking in-process pictures. That way, I have something to confirm that I am on the right track.

I recently tried the web-piecing technique I first heard quilters talk about at least a decade ago. (This is not the one where you use a thin piece of interfacing. I gave that technique a whirl years ago in this post.) With the web-piecing technique, I can keep my fabric—and brain!—in order without the need for pictures.

If you’ve never tried this technique, now is your opportunity! Here are the basic steps:

1. Lay out your patchwork block.

I used this technique on a 36-patch that I am sewing for the Falling Stars sew-along that has been released for Modern Quilt Guild members. (See my previous posts about this quilt top here and here.) 

I have seen some quilters use this approach for assembling an entire quilt, when all the blocks have been assembled and are being sewn together. I think that would be cumbersome. I prefer to use it at the block-piecing stage.

2. Sew the first two columns together without cutting the thread in between units. After the last second-column piece is sewn on, cut the thread.

I know it’s impossible to see on my white background, but in the picture below, the first two columns are now all connected. The four columns on the right have yet to be added to them.


3. Sew the third-column pieces onto the second-column pieces without cutting the thread in between units. After the last third-column piece is sewn on, cut the thread.

The result is that the unit on the left, below, has grown by another column. 


4. Continue sewing in this manner until all the pieces have been sewn.

The nice thing is that I often find myself stopping at this spot. Because all the pieces are connected in the correct order, it is easy to pick up the block again at a later date and continue sewing.

5.  Press adjacent rows in opposite directions, and sew them together.

This technique is not 100% foolproof, but it’s pretty close. I think I made 3 mistakes while sewing my 27.5 blocks and was able to remedy them before sewing the rows together. 

A few additional thoughts on this technique ...

  • I found myself increasing the slack between units. Instead of chain-piecing one unit close to the next, I gave myself about a half-inch of thread, which provided some needed wiggle room when pressing the rows in opposing directions. It also helped in the final step—pressing the horizontal seams in the finished block—because I pressed those seams open.
  • When I, say, ran out of bobbin, I would often resew over the last few stitches of the previous piece before picking up where I left off, just to keep things connected and orderly. 
  • With these 36-patches, after everything was connected, I sewed the top 3 rows together and then the bottom 3 rows together. Then I sewed the top to the bottom. I wouldn’t bother doing that with a smaller block, but it helped in a block like this one with so many pieces.

If this is a new-to-you technique and you give it a try, let me know how it goes! 

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Friday, May 8, 2026

I'm In! Falling Stars Sew-Along / Beauties Pageant 330

April proved to be a time of RPI: rapid project initiation. This phenomenon had nothing to do with me and my weakness for the thrill of a new fabric pull. It had everything to do with the limited brick-and-mortars in my area.

This bout of RPI all started with my next crafty production-line obsession: drawstring bags. Two friends swear by their heat presses for speeding up the interfacing process, and I was intrigued. After investigating buying a commercial heat press secondhand, I placed an order for a more-compact new unit.

What did I do while I waited for the heat press? I started Stara—that colorful project from a few weeks ago. Once I discovered its issues with shadowing, however, I had to place an order for new background fabric.

What did I do while I waited for the heat press and new fabric? I started Falling Stars, the current sew-along from the Modern Quilt Guild (MQG). 

Falling Stars is a fun sew: It’s all about 2.5-inch squares and half-square triangles (HSTs), and requires an eye for value. I used the opportunity to bust through my low-volume scraps, pairing those mostly white and off-white fabrics with blacks and grays from my stash.


At first blush, the block seems humble enough. Once you pair two together, however, you can see the magic at work ...

If you’re an MQG member and considering joining, it’s not too late (learn more here). And I have some advice for you: I’ve been streamlining the cutting and piecing processes with great success. First, instead of making two-at-a-time HSTs per the pattern instructions, I used the HST die on my Accuquilt Go. This means I’ll be sewing bias edges, but still, I won’t have to trim anything—and I’d take bias edges over trimming any day. If you don’t have an Accuquilt Go, may I suggest making a friend who does?

I am also using the web-piecing method. Although I first heard of this technique a decade ago, I only recently tried it out. This is not the technique where you use a thin layer of interfacing to lay out and sew a block together. It’s the one where you chain-piece the first-column pieces to the second-column pieces, cut the thread, chain-piece the third-column pieces to those units, cut the thread, and continue until all the pieces are attached. (Then, that’s the point where you press and sew the rows together.) As a gal who has a habit of zoning out for just long enough to mix up the order of a patchwork block, I’m sold on the web-piecing approach. 

I know the linky focuses on finishes, but I want to hear about your new projects, too. What have you started up recently?

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Friday, January 26, 2024

Simple, Sneaky Patchwork Method / Beauties Pageant 243

Updated January 17, 2025

I’ve noticed a resurgence of a simple and sneaky patchwork method on Instagram lately. Have you encountered it? It’s the hack where you iron squares to a piece of webbing and sew entire rows of patchwork together in one fell swoop. It’s a clever shortcut—one I cannot take credit for developing—and it produces a panel with perfect points in a fraction of the time.

My Experience 

I explored this technique years ago in my Cross My Heart quilt and the corresponding tutorial. If you’re looking for a quick and easy Valentine’s-themed project, I recommend checking out the write-ups. One heart requires 49 squares and some webbing. Add in a little fabric to frame out the patchwork and make a backing, and you can sew yourself a pillow in no time!


A Perfect Pattern for the Technique

The pattern that caused social media to revisit this technique more recently was Embroidery Flowers, a free pixelated design from Tilda pictured at the top of the post. Instagram users in particular were excited about this design, and Pink Door Fabrics quickly sold out of kits for the quilt.

Veruschka, of Pride and Joy Quilting, tackled the pattern and its more than 2,000 squares using the simple, sneaky piecing method. The big difference between her approach and mine, aside from the sheer enormity of her project, was the webbing she used: TenSisters EasyPiecing Grid Panels. Whereas I manually marked out my grids, she used a preprinted product that accommodated Embroidery Flowers’ 2-inch squares.

As Veruschka explained it on Instagram, she likely wouldn’t have been able to take on such a project without the shortcut method and the preprinted webbing. She designs complicated paper-piecing projects, and all the cut and organized fabrics for Embroidery Flowers were not something that could linger in her workspace. She needed to finish the top, clean up her space, and move on to her other work.

There’s no longer documentation of Veruschka’s process on Instagram—probably because she’s now teaching students how to design and sew their own original pixelated projects. Kaitlyn, of Knot and Thread Design, however, has posted a three-part series on how she assembled a panel with TenSisters’ panels. Check out her method on Instagram in these posts: part 1, part 2, part 3

Kaitlyn’s technique differs from my own in two ways: She added the step of using a glue stick to keep the squares in place while transferring a panel to the ironing board. (Brilliant!) And she clips the webbing to get the seams of multiple panels to nest. I prefer to trim my seam allowances and press open. (You can see pics of my approach here.)

My Advice

If you think you’d like to implement the webbing shortcut in one of your projects, I recommend doing a test first—like, make a small piece of patchwork with the technique before committing to an entire quilt with it. I say this because I did not like the results I got on my throw-size Cross My Hearts quilt. The webbing changed the hand of the finished quilt, so much so that I decided to interface the solid squares in mine. 

I have a kit for Embroidery Flowers, and when I get around to sewing it, I will machine-piece it without webbing. With all the seams necessary to sew thousands of squares together, Embroidery Flowers will be a heavy top even without a webbing layer.

This is not to say I won’t employ this technique again. If I had a patchwork pillow on my to-do list, that would be a different story. A pillow could benefit from the extra substance the webbing layer contributes to the final product.

Have you tried this patchwork cheat before? Let us know in the comments!

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Friday, September 1, 2023

Technique: How I Sew Chunky Stitches on Bindings / Beauties Pageant 226

 

It’s fair to say that I avoid hand stitching at all costs. I don’t enjoy it, it tends to be rough on my wrists, and besides, I’ve got some mad sewing machine skills ... Why would I hand-stitch something that I can sew by machine? 

The one exception for me is chunky hand stitching on bindings—I love the look of it!

This is what I am talking about, a thick line of imperfect stitches that contrasts with my binding and that reminds the quilt recipient an actual person made this object ... 

The technique is easy—so easy, in fact, that I hesitated to write this post. If you don’t already have this binding option in your quilty arsenal, I hope these instructions will help you make the leap.

Ready, Set, Go!

Chunky hand stitching is the final step of binding a quilt. At this point, I have already made my binding with 2.5-inch width-of-fabric strips and attached it to one side of the quilt by machine. Whether I attach it to the front or back depends on the project. Sometimes I like the look of the chunky stitching on the front. Other times, I prefer it on the back. Do whatever gives you the look you’re striving for.

Tools of the Trade

 
This technique requires notions you likely already have on hand ...

 

Thread

I use a 12-weight Aurifil thread when finishing bindings with chunky stitches. I’m sure less expensive thread would work just as well, and I think an 8-weight thread would be fine, too. (Remember, as the number of the weight decreases, the thickness of the thread increases.) I recommend trying what you have on hand and seeing how it works before purchasing something new.

I don’t use a thread conditioner, but if using one makes you happy, go for it!

Hand-Sewing Needle

There is nothing fancy about my needle. It’s sharp, has a big-enough eye to accommodate the thick thread, and is long enough that it feels good in my hand. If you’re savvy about needles (admittedly, I am not), I’d say something in the embroidery or crewel family would work. (If you have insight into needle selection, by all means let us know in the comments!)

Quilting Gloves

I do not use thimbles—I haven’t invested the time (or money) into finding one I like. Instead, I prefer to wear my Machingers quilting gloves. They help me grasp the needle, lessening the wear and tear on my hands.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Cut a length (say, 24 inches) of the chunky thread you’re using, and double-knot the end.

2. Insert the needle an inch away (or less, whatever the quilting lines permit) from where you want to start (or, in the case of the photo below, to continue) your lines of stitches.


3. Pull the thread through, burying the knot between the fabric and batting. This will not hurt the fabric! Sometimes I have to lift the fabric a bit to encourage the knot to go through more easily.


4. Start sewing, ensuring the thread passes through the binding and the fabric without peeking through on the other side. My stitches are about a quarter-inch long. I strive for uniformity, but part of the beauty of this stitching is the little wobbles and inconsistencies. : )

Sometimes I can get away with weaving the needle up and down and making multiple stitches at a time.

5. Secure the corners by stitching an X.




6. When you’re close to the end of your thread, tie a double knot a little beyond where your next stitch will end. Sew that last stitch, ensuring the knot lies between the fabric and batting, and bringing the needle through the fabric about an inch from that endpoint. Trim the tail close to the fabric.

That’s it! I think the hardest part of this process is making sure I don’t poke the thread through to the opposite side of the quilt. : )

There are plenty of times when I still finish my bindings by machine—especially when I’m short on time—but I do enjoy hand stitching a binding here and there.

Have you given this technique a try? If so, tell us about it in the comments.

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Thursday, February 16, 2023

My FPP Technique for Set to Spin

 

*** Click here to purchase Set to Spin ***

This post supplements the instructions in my Set to Spin pattern with more information about the supplies I use and the foundation paper-piecing technique I prefer. There’s also a discussion about pressing.

Supplies

Rotary blades: I use two, one for fabric and one, outfitted with an older blade, for paper.

Glue stick: Any washable version will work fine.

Add-a-Quarter Ruler: This ruler has a lip on it that makes creating a quarter-inch seam allowance super easy, but it’s not mission critical. Any quilting ruler is suitable for the task.

Best Press Spray: I like this spray because it is scent-free and I can buy it in large jugs. Plenty of other, less expensive options for starch are available, though.

Newsprint: There are all sorts of specialty papers on the market for paper piecing. I find them to be expensive, though, and prefer using newsprint, which is very affordable and readily available in reams of 8.5" x 11" sheets that you can send through your printer. It’s also recyclable. I do find newsprint to be a little slippery to work with, so I often wear my quilting gloves while piecing with it to improve my grasp. 

Cardstock or thin cardboard: I use a piece to fold back my pattern and trim seams neatly and easily. (See the video below to learn more on this.)

Technique

I choose to cut my fabrics into simple, oversize rectangles. I find that the combination of oversize pieces and basic shapes prevents me from making mistakes and having to rip out stitches because a fabric doesn’t fully cover a section of the pattern. I also have problems with spatial concepts—my brain just doesn’t work that way!—and this technique compensates for that.

There is waste with this method, for sure. Once you see how I work with these pieces, I think you’ll understand the method to my madness, though. If you have a different technique that works for you, go for it!


Pressing the Seams

The Set to Spin pattern details how to press the A and B units in a way to get seams to nest. 

When it comes to sewing two quarter blocks together or two halves together, I recommend pressing the seams opens to produce less bulk in the seam allowances. However, if you’re using a dark fabric 1 and a light fabric 2, pressing the seams open could allow little triangles of fabric 1 to show through fabric 2. 

I found this out the hard way. Look at the shadows of that center fabric 1 in this picture:

To avoid this issue, I now trim back those little triangles of fabric 1. Look for these little flaps on each side of the A units:


Trim them with a pair of snips to look like this:

Because there are four A units in each finished block, there will be eight flaps to trim.

The Set to Spin testing crew did not flag any other issues with fabric showing through in the finished block. Just to be on the safe side, make sure your fabrics don’t cause any problems by sewing a test block. Place that test block on a piece of batting, and hold it up to a well-lit window, checking to see whether any darker fabrics show through.

Questions?

I hope this supplemental pattern information is helpful. If you have any questions, you can always drop me a note at frombolttobeauty [at] gmail [dot] com. 

*** Click here to purchase Set to Spin ***

Friday, January 6, 2023

10 Ways to Quilt on a Budget / Beauties Pageant 200

This post has been updated. Read it here.

Hello and happy new year! (And happy 200th Brag About Your Beauties Pageant!) Since many of us take the start of the calendar year as a way to reflect and recalibrate, I thought a post about spending mindfully on quilting supplies was appropriate.

Truth be told, I’m fiscally conservative in generalit’s just my personality. Since I started publishing patterns, however, my hobby has become self-sufficient. That doesn’t mean that I buy quilting supplies with abandon. Too much of a good thing can be overwhelming and undermine my creativity. (If that last point resonates with you, check out this illustration and this blog post from FeelGood Fibers.)

If you resolve to get smarter about your quilty purchases, too, consider these points ...

Fabric

1. Start with your stash. 

When there’s a new project on the horizon, I shop my stash first. Too often I am tempted to order a new blender or buy a new background fabric only to discover that I already own a perfectly lovely substitute.

At times I’ve used a long-stashed cut of fabric as the inspiration for an entire project. (The best example of this is my Me-Wow! quilt; I started with the binding fabric and built the palette from there.) It may seem like a time-intensive way to use up yardage, but it can prove to be a fun exercise in creatively using what you’ve got.

2. Buy what you need for the project at hand. 

Buying fabrics because you like them or because you’re afraid you won’t be able to find them in the future is a sure-fire way to amass a lot of fabric quickly. I try to buy just the material needed for the next project or two. (I know, it’s easier said than done.) After all, there will always be another beautiful, new fabric collection, and I can often find out-of-production lines on the secondary market after they disappear from quilt shops (and sometimes at better prices than they originally sold for).

To stick to this resolution, remove unnecessary temptations. That could mean unsubscribing to newsletters or steering clear of certain hashtags on Instagram (I, for one, have fallen into the rabbit hole called #TheGreatFabricDestash many times). You can always resubscribe in the future.

3. Sew with solids.

Do you know what’s less expensive than the latest and greatest fabric collection? Solids. I find I can save up to $4 or $5 per yard when I sew with solids instead of printed quilting cottons. 

4. Buy smaller cuts.

Don’t buy a half-yard when a fat quarter will do the job. Say you want to sew a project with a scrappy low-volume background. Quarter yards (fat or skinny) will help you achieve that scrappy look without breaking the bank and without creating the scraps that half-yards would.

The challenge here is often finding a good source of quarter yards. I always start with my local quilt shop, because online fabric retailers usually have a minimum cutting size, but there are some online options for fat quarters. One of my favorites is Lark Cottons, which offers its entire stock as fats.

5. Buy local.

The benefit of buying in person is that I make smarter purchases, buying fabrics that are more likely to coordinate with the yardage I already have. Too often I find myself making an online purchase only to realize the fabrics aren’t quite right once I have them in hand. (And so the stash grows!)

6. Buy secondhand or trade with friends.

I’ve found great deals on older fabric lines on Instagram or FeelGood Fibers. I’ve also arranged a trade with friends. One quilty friend gave me unbridled access to her bin of 2.5-inch scraps, and I left her with a cut of fabric from my stash that I knew she would use faster than I could. It was a win-win!


7. Sell what you don’t use.

I’ve had good success selling fabricincluding bundles, yardage, and scrapson both Instagram and FeelGood Fibers. (Read my advice about listing on FeelGood Fibers here.) I use Instagram when I know something will sell quickly. FeelGood Fibers, on the other hand, is great because listings are searchable.

Quilting

8. Quilt some of your own projects.

I had made a few dozen quilts before I started sending projects out for longarming services, so I’m adept at quilting my own projects with a walking foot. I’ve even ventured into free-motion quilting with good success. If quilting is new to you, start with small projects and grow from there.

I quilt all of the baby quilts I make and anything that would benefit from my expertise in straight-line quilting. Projects bigger than a 72-inch square by default go to a longarmer, as do more angular patterns that would benefit from swirly quilting designs.


9. Buy batting in bulk and use up the scraps.

I buy batting by the bolt. My top choice is the Warm Company’s Warm & White. I think it’s good value for my money, and the white (as opposed to, say, Warm & Natural) works well with my usual white or cream background fabrics.

I also save my scraps and use fusible webbing to cobble them together to make bigger, more usable pieces.

Notions

10. Avoid buying unnecessary notions.

I don’t invest in trendy notions. Anything that I’d use on a single project is not worth the cost. 

Instead of buying specialty rulers, I make sure my tried-and-true square and rectangular ones are in good working order and replace them as needed. And instead of buying expensive paper for foundation paper piecing, I buy a ream of 8.5-inch by 11-inch newsprint. I buy inexpensive irons at Target and store WIPs on coat hangers, in plastic Ziploc bags, or in plastic bins (all of which I use over and over again).

I’m sure you have your own tricks to make smart purchases. Share your tips in the comments below!

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Friday, January 21, 2022

Technique: How I Match Repeats / Beauties Pageant 159

 

Ninety-nine percent of the time, I piece my backs. My tried-and-true technique for doing so involves using stash and scraps and avoids matching repeats. Period. (For the nitty-gritty on my “recipe” for piecing a back like that, see this post.)

However, sometimes an especially beautiful fabricoften with a large-scale designmerits the extra effort to match a repeat. My most recent experience in matching two fabric widths was my most successful to date. Heres the step-by-step process ...

1. Press both cuts of fabric well. For the record, I use an inexpensive iron and, as a regular course of action, do not use steam.

2. Determine where in the design to match up the repeat. Then fold one of the cuts of fabric along the length at that point, and press. The weave of fabricand as a result, the designtends to shift over time on a bolt. As a result, I let the design determine where I fold and press the fabric instead of, say, measuring from an edge to identify where to fold and press.

3. Lay the fabric on your ironing board. Im right-handed and find it easiest to place the unfolded cut on the surface first. Then I lay the folded cut on top and to the right.

4. Place a little glue along the bottom of the fold. Line the design up with the other cut of fabric, and set the glue with an iron. A washable school glue (in a bottle or a stick) will do the job. I find that gluing and pressing 6 inches at a time works well.

5. Open up the fabric up, keeping the right sides of the cuts together, and sew directly on the fold. You could sew an initial pass with a longer stitch, see whether you like the results, and then, if everything looks good, resew over that original line of stitches with a shorter stitch length. I, however, just sewed along the fold once with my standard stitch length.

6. Press the joined widths. In general, I prefer to press any seams, and especially those on a quilt back, open, but I find it easiest to press to one side in this situation. If youre patient and dont overdo the glue, you could carefully pry the seam open for pressing.


 7. Step back and admire your work! Any visible glue will disappear in the wash.

What is your approach to sewing pieced backs—do you match seams? Or do you avoid the issue altogether by using widebacks?! 

More From Bolt to Beauty techniques ...

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